Grand Théatre de Bordeaux, in profile

Events during this festive month have led the vagabond to Bordeaux and Paris, where shoppers are in last-minute rush mode.  Bordeaux’s long Allées de Tourny boulevard is transformed into a Marché de Noël with wooden cabins to shelter vendors of giftie temptations from around the world. Kids peer from strollers and ride high on Papas’ shoulders, bight-eyed and munching on Chi-chi beignets and Barbe à Papa (cotton candy).  The toasty aromas of roasting chestnuts fill the air as it does in Paris along my (current) favorite shopping street in the 14th arrondissement, Rue Daguerre, near the Denfert Rochereau RER station. In fact, the neighborhood watering hole, Café Daguerre is a treat for a morning café machiato before perusing the cheese vendors, pastry and fruit shops.  A stop in Cave des Papilles, the specialist in natural-wines, is always fascinating, as is a browse through the diverse fish choices in poissonnieres (how many ways can salmon be cured, smoked or sliced?) and great range of breads at Richesses de la Nature (around the corner). Winter’s primo cheeses are up for selection on this street-shoppers’ buffet – French or Italian, Dutch or Swiss.  All this leads me to the Savoy specialist, Le Brasier Daguerre, for Raclette: melted cheese and potatoes – hefty fare for a winter night in a neighborhood for lingering.

As all the overhead sparkle fades into memory, we return to the country and tranquil evenings at home. A candle and Santon – from a memorable provençal Christmas past in Apt -  grace our table, as the vagabond wishes you all a peaceful, delicious Christmas!

Santon, vin de Cahors, a bougie for Christmas