Mustard woes

November 22nd, 2008

The classic French condiment, Dijon mustard, is in trouble. This week when I read the news about Amora – Maille closing three of their four mustard factories in Burgundy, I thought about the French pride in their patrimoine culinaire - long-standing food traditions and history – in these uncertain economic times. But mustard – why moutarde ? When I dug into the subject, the effects of gloabalization became clear. Since the year 2000, French mustard-makers Maille and Amora have been owned by the food giant, Unilever. Production at the historic Dijon factory has been down 42% since 2002.  At Appoigny, their factory is now at only a quarter of production capacity. And in just one year, the price of mustard seeds has soared 144%. Making mustard is not such a simple job, as over 250 employees who will lose their jobs know. The prefect of Burgundy has called for a “restructuration”. Another official (anonymous) said: “it is too late”.  What about the farmers, whose fields surrounding Dijon glow with golden mustard flowers each spring? Will they replace mustard with sunflowers or colza for “alternative fuel”? The landscape will change, as will the composition of flavors on our plates: perhaps we won’t have Maille Moutarde de Dijon for our mayonnaise, salad dressings – or as a zesty touch with cold turkey.  We’ll see….on verra

1 Comment »

  1. Mimi says

    Marolyn, I almost always bring a jar of mustard back from France with me. And I do love a mustard sauce on turkey. This is disturbing news!

    November 24th, 2008 | #

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